Pushrod attachment (Dec. 19th 2004)
Shouldn't there be another
bushing? The AN3-6 Bolt will pivot in the bellcrank plate bore otherwise
(not good). .
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New Bellcranks (Dec. 18th 2004)
I worked almost the whole Saturday on this new set of aileron bellcranks.
The left (assembled) one
is the lefthand bellcrank. The left one is smaller than the right one (because
the ribs all face the same direction on the left and on the right wing).
The bolt is too long (I wonder if I can get an AN 3A-11).The edges of the
bellcrank-block-flange I have radiused (this may distribute the load better
on the ribs). Instead of using bakelite for the spacers (I think this material
is out-of date in the Year 2004) I made the spacers of aluminum. Because
there in no tension load on the spacers, lightening is appropriate. Total
space between the blocks is 9.2mm. This is much more than on the original
plans, because the flanges of the oil-free bushings are much thicker (3mm)
than the flanges of the original oil-bronze bushings (1.6mm). Weight has
increase from 80g (original assembly) to 120g (this assembly) - I think
I can live with this.
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Aileronrib Stiffener (Dec. 14th 2004)
This is the new stiffener for the aileron-bellcrank carrying wingrib (rib #11 on my Sonex, rib #9 on the original drawing).
Deviating from the plans
this box-structure is made from a single sheet 0.032" material - no
clips or brackets required. Making the bends to precision is not an easy
task (all Sonex builders owing a aluminum scrap-pile of at least 20 kilograms
are qualified ;-)) Also almost all of the other parts required for the ailoeron-ribs
are made once again (two new aft-wingribs, four bellcrank-pivot blocks,
two stiffener boxes, four rib-stiffener brackets)
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Aileron Bellcrank (Dec. 12th 2004)
Now it's decided. I will scrap both ribs and bellcrank assemblys and re-design them completely:
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Servicing the Sonex.... (Dec. 11th 2004)
...is a dark chapter. Let's explain what I mean on the example of the aileron bellcranks.
At first to the building: the rivit (3) cannot be set because the stiffener angle on the rear is in the way (encircled). Worse ist the servicing aspect. If the bronce bushings (1) are worn out in future there is virtually no way to replace them.
The flanged bushings are pressed into the blocks from the INSIDE. Even if bolt (3) is removed through the inspection cover in the wingskin (maybe possible if you have spider fingers) the blocks will NOT come apart because they are riveted on the wingrib. Drilling out the rivets also is not possible through the inspection hole. So what to do? fly until the pivot points become sloppy and then scrap the machine? remove the wingskin (drilling out thousands of rivets)? Using Screws instead of rivets would also be no option because the nut on the opposite side cannot be reached with a wrench.
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In Deep Despair (once again) (Dec. 5th 2004)
how, on heaven's sake can these rivets be set? There is no rivet puller on this planet small enough to fit into this confinement (aft wingrib No, 1).
The rootrib attach angle to the left is already riveted in place and I'm not going to remove it in this life anymore. Advise for newcomers: Think twice, then rest, think twice again until you start riveting the wing skeletal.
Last resort will be using M4 stainless steel bolts and stopnuts - no other solution in sight.
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