...I finally got it! (Aug. 27th, 00)

this turtledeck former #5 is one of the trickiest parts to hammer. If using the Sonex original form block you will never succeed. The fluting locations at the top are simply too far apart (or radius too small).

So I modified the formblock and this came out:

Note the two additional flutes. I hope they will not interfer too much with the rivet locations. Another tip for those who make their own form blocks: Sonexe's form blocks always have a flange angle of 90 deg. In the above example this is not good, because the plans call out for only 80 deg. So using the Sonex formblock, the flange will overbent first (wich makes buckling and folding worse). Afterwards the flange has to be bent back 10 deg. I pushed a small wooden wedge of 10 deg between the formblock and the metal flange when hammering.

This is what came out (after four pieces of scrap). Not bad in my view.

============================================

...about Angle Stock (Aug. 19th, 00)

This week I started making little clips, angles, etc. from 0.025 sheet metal. According to the Sonex plans the suggestion is to make at first a long piece of angle stock (Z01-03 and Z02-03) and then use this stock to cut the actual pieces to size.

I dislike this suggested procedure for the following reasons:

• this 8 ft long angle can only be bent at the metal shop (for cash $$). My little brake can handle only pieces up to 2 ft. Ordering from overseas is prohibitive because of freight cost.
• when I look at the pieces to be cut out of the stock, these are mostly small items. The 1" x 1" angle will barely never be used, but grinded down to about 1/2" x 1/2". In my view this is a waste of material.
• the angle stock has to be cut from the long side of the 12x4 sheet. So all the angles will be bent WITH THE GRAIN. In my view this is bad working practice.
• Some of the angle stock has to be opened up again. This is unnecessary strain to the material.

My way of making this pieces is using some of the leftover material. In order to bend exact angles I made an indexer to my brake.

So I can make the 60deg and 94 deg bends easily. The pieces I cut first with little oversize, then I bend and finally I grind to exact size.

This is the way I clamp the little angles for grinding at the Scotchbrite wheel. Be careful this pieces will become really HOT.

============================================

...new tool in town (Aug. 9th, 00)

that's the latest toy in my tools collection:

delivery took two weeks (imported from the US (Northern Tools) / from Taiwan). When I hooked up the air hose, the air blew out but not the slightest movement. So I removed the shear head (so tight, had to use a tube to extend the allen wrench). Inside it was dry like desert, so put grease at the excenter drive and some drops of air-tool oil into the air inlet. Then used a 1/2" wrench and broke loose the excenter drive mechanism. After this the thing is running!

I made some first cuts. It's a joy cutting the 0.032 (have to re-order some sheet metal). The cut edges are perfect. Only a final brush with the Scotchbrite wheel that's it. Looks this will be my favourite tool for long cuts (sidewalls, wingskins etc.).

One thing you should have a look at:

This skids are of hardened steel and they make bad lines at each side of the cut. So I will stick scotch transparent tape (wide one) over the cutmark for protection of the alumn.

The big pieces are already marked, I'll cut always one opposite side 6mm (1/8") wider than the plans and will trim to fit at final assembly (you never know...)